So, i was just wondering what people use to protect climbs on buildings.

I have a few climbs where even a  psychological pice would be helpful, and one where i would not climb it without a rope. I plan on just using slings, and tying off stuff or using the german “soft nut” technique. Also, there is 8-ish inch offwidth i am spying, but dont have any cams, so i was wondering how well a cammed 2×4 will work. I have seen them used for aid before, but wonder if they will hold a short lead fall.

thanks for any info/help in advance

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7 Responses

  1. ardarvin Reply

    I'm assuming you have a fair bit of rock-climbing experience, leading experience, gear placement, anchor building, etc.

    Given that, the rest is just common sense, and walking the “how sketchy you wanna make it” line a little thinner than the average rock-climber.

    I've used cams and slings to protect  buildings…I've never found a suitable nut placement.

    The most important thing is to do a trial run on the piece of gear. I've heard stories of cams ripping out of bricks. I'm not sure how true those stories are, but it doesn't hurt to jam a cam in something, clip in an aider, and jump around. Heck, throw a big bag of cement off onto it…whatever…just be sure it'll hold.

    As for 2×4's…I've never used them…but I've been 'close'. I never drummed up the nerve to do the climb…a 30 story chimney. I've still got the 23″ 2x4s with a hole drilled in one end to clip to. Note, such camming action will only work if the wall on which the lower point of the 2×4″ sits  is extremely textured. For my said climb, the wall has horizontal ribs.

    At 8″ there ARE cams big enough. Find rich friends, or if you must…buy one. Especially if it's a matter of life and death.

  2. kiell Reply

    (A few thoughts based on my limited experience…)

    With ard on testing the protection.  Bricks and mortar are not as strong as people tend to think as cement can be particularly weak when placed under sustained pressure.  As you said, though, it's probably more for reassurance as opposed to expecting to use it.  If you fall on it and it blows, at least it reduces the force you'll end up placing on the next bit of gear.  If there is a next bit of gear…  

    Gotta love off width cracks.  I'm sure I'm telling you something you already know, but make sure you can move past your gear once you've placed it.

    Got no idea what a cammed 2×4 is, so intrigued if you could enlighten me. :)

    Is the crack a consistent width?  there are some massive cams out there if you can justify the expense, but if you can wedge a huge seagull basher hex somewhere it might be a better option.  I remember watching a video of Johnny Dawes where he uses a piece of bluetack to hold a skyhook in place…

    Remember chatting to RooDog about climbing a building in London (the same one that ard did back in the day).  He placed quickdraws as there was lots of metalwork available, but didn't account for the racket they created when they blew in the wind and knocked against the building.  Worth keeping in mind!

    Anyways.  Nuff rambling.  Should probably get on with some work… Good luck. :D

  5. jimcrimp Reply

    Cams are pricey, 2×4's are sketchy. I think i might just spend $15 on a massive hex.

    nice job on the picture Ard!

  6. ardarvin Reply

    Also there's the Big-Bro route. I think they are a bit cheaper than the big cams.

    You gotta find some salty ol' trad dog who can lend you the gear.

  7. jimcrimp Reply

    big bro's are awesome, but cost over  $95 at MEC. It might be worth it if i start building a trad rack though, because they can protect such a wide range…

    i think the hexes are the way to go.

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