Cragrat's Guide to University of British Columbia Vol. III

Routes

cover page

DISCLAIMER

Buildering, i.e. climbing buildings, is stupid dangerous. Buildering always results in serious injury and horrible death. Buildering is illegal. You will be caught, charged with trespassing, and spend years in jail. All media contained within this guidebook is fictional. It is a fictional account of fictional characters doing fictional things. All photos have been doctored to give the appearance of buildering. They are not real. This guidebook is not intended to promote or legitimize the illicit activities of criminals. Buildering.net promotes climbing in gyms, walking on sidewalks, and good dental hygiene.

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HISTORY

In 1968 Dick Culbert, a prolific Coastal Mountain Range mountaineer and member of the UBC Varsity Outdoor Club, compiled a two volume buildering guidebook titled A Cragrat's Guide to the UBC Campus.

The volumes consisted of typewritten pages with taped in black and white photographs. Volume I covered routes to the west of Main Mall Road, and volume II covered routes to the east. For years the books were readily viewable at the VOC clubroom library, however at some point in the late '90s someone walked away with volume I.

Forty years after Cragrat's was constructed, buildering.net is releasing volume III, a new completely digital version. Yes it lacks the tactile response of a book, but it has a lot of advantages as well: permanence, exposure, expandability, and it's free. When portable internet devices like the iPhone are commonplace, climbers will be able to carry this guide in their pocket.

Since 1968 buildings have come and gone, yet there still remain a number of the classic routes. Whenever possible I reference the original volume II photographs and route descriptions.

These classic routes were climbed by mountaineers. As such, they tend to be bold summit-by-any-means-necessary adventures. Many of the newer routes are more bouldering-oriented and technical in nature. Both have their merits.

ETHICS

One of the greatest things about buildering is that you make your own rules. Your actions rarely impact others around you. That said, let's keep things that way. Leave no trace. Save your professions of love and Grad 2004 pride for roadside boulders. Remember this whole buildering thing is fictional, let's not give the authorities any real evidence of our misdeeds. Yes chalk is evidence, and generally unnecessary.

I'll let you draw your own conclusions about climbing shoes. Unless otherwise noted, route descriptions and ratings assume you are wearing sneakers or those nifty sticky rubber approach shoes. In my opinion climbing shoes make the routes a little too easy, make landings and running from cops a little too hard, and generally are not in the spirit of the sport. The 1960s climbers wore hiking boots -- with our arsenal of modern day climbing techniques we should be wearing roller skates and boxing gloves.

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Ard on the roof of Koerner Library.

THANK YOUS

- Owen Loy for programming the Google Maps module. Check out his blog.
- Oker Chen for providing a portion of the route photos (all the good ones). Check out his Flickr photostream.
- The pioneers: Dick Culbert, T. Auger, M. Wisnicki, M. Ablitt, G. Headley, J. Whittaker, G. Woodsworth, A. Ellis, M. Lasserre, A. Purdey, B. McKnight, M. Warr, H. Bruce, R. Scott, E. Lance, B. Howard, D. Harris, F. Baumann, R. Price, D. Schmail, J. Rietsma, J. Byers, L. Watson, T. Stevens, A. Fraser, S. Brummel, S. White, N. Humphrey, C. McNeill, and D. Gibson.
- To the numerous builderers I've had the pleasure of adventuring with over the years. The list is too big, I'd inevitably miss some, and others are still in school and probably prefer to go nameless. You know who you are, the authorities don't, lets keep it that way!

-Ard

 

Admin Corner

Shimmy up the pillar. Use a heel hook to rock up to the top. The hornet's nest is unoccupied last I checked.


Difficulty
 
Kenny under tension.

Admin Dyno

Smear your feet on the wall, pulling yourself up with the undercling. Throw to the top. A good test piece of strength. Climbing shoes a no-no.


Difficulty
 
Spotters help take off the edge.

Ampel Dyno

A great adventure. Climb the Ampel Grate route to get on the lower roof. Jump onto the lowest metal walkway on the building proper. Weee. Using the window sills, dyno to the I-Beam on the overhead walkway. Squeeze between the walkway and the building to get up.

Descend by dropping back onto the roof. Those who don't brave the dyno are basically stuck.

For those feeling frisky, repeat the dyno move to each higher tier. Bring a full rope to rappel, or a 10 m chunk to protect an airy move on the left corner of the top out roof, which gets you on the roof proper and access to many open doors allowing descent through the inside of the building.

Go exploring. This is a neat roof as far as rooftops go.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Ampel Grate

A fun route in its own right, which grants access to Ampel Dyno and Ample Roof Corner.

Climb up the metal grate. In general use the edges, where the tin ribs attach to the side, when climbing such grates to avoid bending/breakage.

The top move is a bit reachy.

*BETA / SPOILER ALERT*
Use a toe hook for your feet. Apply upward pressure on the tin rib to give you that extra reach.


Difficulty
 

Ampel Overhang

This route sits somewhere between easy and moderate. Straightforward climbing up and out on the I-Beams, with a moderately tricky top out move.

Descend via the north end of the structure [climber's left]. Peek over the edge, there's a rusty metal pipe to swing your feet onto.


Difficulty
 

Ampel Roof Corner

Accessed by climbing Ampel Grate.

Use the windowsills and the few cement features and haul your ass up.

Hang and drop for descent.


Difficulty
 

Ampel Windows

Use the window sills, door hinges, and misc cement features to pull up to the roof.
Descend by heading up and over to the Ampel Roof Corner route, where you hang and drop.


Difficulty
 

Astronomy Crack

Way too short, but great practice for crack neophytes. Fist jam up onto the roof. No, you can't layback it.


Difficulty
 

Belkin Glass Roof

Shimmy up the diagonal pipe and swing around onto the roof. Descend via Belkin Pipe route.


Difficulty
 
Alan with the UBC Buildering Contest 5 winning climb.

Belkin North Drainage

Squeeze the sides of the triangle. Pull yourself up, get your feet on the triangle. Reach way up to the finishing metal edge. Hard. Descend via Belkin Pipe route.


Difficulty
 

Belkin Pipe

Used as a descent for the other Belkin routes.


Difficulty
 

Belkin South Drainage

Jump up onto the left edge of the slope, grabbing the undercling. Move right to the drainage chute. Pinch the ribs on the side of the chute, and jam your foot into the corner of the chute and the wall. Rock over and up. Usually wet, although it doesn't affect the route much. Look on the other side...one of the only routes on campus with a bolt and hanger!

Descend down the Belkin Pipe route.

Boris the Sneaky Russian Variation: Don't use your foot in the corner.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Belkin Yellow Thing

I'm hesitant to call this monstrosity a sculpture, so I won't. Layback up the "thing". Isn't scrap metal worth big bucks these days?


Difficulty

Quality
 
Kenny. Things look a litle different now (there's an adjoined walkway) but the move is still doable.

Bio-Science Dyno

Climb up the pillar. Throw with both hands to the lip. Of course it can be done with one hand, or even statically, but where's the fun in that?

Physically it's green circle, mentally it's black diamond.


Difficulty

Quality
 
SteveZ about to work into the under​cling​.​

Bio-Science Undercling

Start to the right, pinching the vertical ribs and stemming wide. Grab the tops of the ribs, and work your way left, around the corner and into an undercling. Work left, and throw for the top. Mantel up without assistance from the handrail or pillar. A fantastic route.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Botany Annex Mantel

A good practice spot for a common buildering movement: the overhang mantel. Nail it here, and take it to Bio-Science Undercling.


Difficulty
 

Botany Annex Slot

Rating somewhere between moderate and hard, this is a tricky route that has stymied the best of them. Very similar in nature to the IRC Stairwell, only a little further of a reach.

Chimney up, reach around and grab the slot, swing around and up.


Difficulty
 

Buchanan Traverse

See: Featured Route

Note: If you plan on dropping onto the breezeway, this route requires gear.

1968 Guide:

1st asc. and traverse- 1962- A. Ellis, B. Lasserre, R. Woodsworth

This is generally considered one of the more enjoyable climbs on campus -- not difficult but fairly lengthy. It begins on the large brass decoration just to the left of Buchanan's western entrance, and by means of this the first section of roof may be gained. [2008: a bench was added. Stand on bench and jump to roof.] Turning south, ascend to next roof level by means of a shoulder stand, the last man coming up on a rope or by claw hammer and slings. [2008: a ladder was added.] The next problem is getting to roof of the penthouse, which may be done by a direct mantleshelf from a railing, but be damn careful not to swing a foot through the picture windows. [2008: climb up the north east corner of the penthouse, using the door hinges for feet. Same warning applies.]

There now comes two downhill steps. The first of these may be done with the aid of a wall bracket and door handle. Climbers jumping this directly on dark, rainy nights may be in for a surprise, as roof holds considerable water. The second step down onto junction with north Buchanan is a straight dangle and drop job. [2008: And the point of no return.]

Now comes the problem of climbing to next roof, generally accomplished by combined shoulder stands and mantleshelf, or shoulder and claw hammer. This ends the difficulties. Rappel from snorkel pipe on inside corner of eastern section of building. This provides mild shock for anyone using adjacent stairs at time.


Difficulty
 

CEME Labs Traverse

Start at the entrance way, grabbing the rusty metal rib and throwing to the top. Head south, up a series of sub-roofs to a breezeway connecting CEME Labs and CEME proper. Climb on to the roof of the breezeway by stemming on the vertical window panes. Walk across to CEME. An unlocked door accesses a stairwell.


Difficulty
 
Morgan.

CEME Labs Wishbone Gap

Not a climbing route, but fun nonetheless. Hey if The Night Climbers of Cambridge can have their Senate House Leap, Cragrat's UBC can have its Wishbone Gap.

Climb onto the roof via CEME Labs Traverse, or by a walled-in blower/water heater/industrial-looking-thing on the east side of the building. Find gap. Run. Jump. Land. Roll. Don't break anything.


Difficulty
 

CEME-Ampel Breezeway

Shimmy up the pipe to the left, and traverse across the I-Beam on the underside of the breezeway. Gets strenuous.

It is possible to top-rope this route by throwing a rope over the breezeway. You'll need four people: one to climb, one to belay, one to walk along the roof of the breezeway and scoot the rope along, and one to take pictures.


Difficulty
 

Chan Layback

Climb onto the east end of the entryway covering, using the wall and the blue trash bin. From this roof, head up the appealing crack.

Descend by bear-hugging the big pipes.


Difficulty
 

Chan Pipe

This route can be lead or top roped, and is nicely secluded. Access top rope via the Chan Layback route, and up a ladder. Use the anchor set back in the middle of the roof.

Pretty straightforward stuff with a runout top section for lead climbers.


Difficulty
 

Chemistry Alley

Brand new, just for you!

Head up the windows. The tricky rock-over at the top can be practiced on a lower tier. Descend to the climber's right.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Chemistry Breezeway

The pioneers have a way of understating things. When they say "awkward" and "a bit delicate", you should read "damn hard" and "desperate".

A top rope will take the edge off of this one. Unless you've got olympic-quality rope throwing skills, you'll need to climb the adjacent tree to get a rope over the breezeway (see inset).

1968 Guide:
(Daylight) A route to the roof of the south-wing breezeway was put up by T. Auger in 1965. This starts in south-west corner beneath breezeway and goes up awkward chimney formed by pillar. From part way up this transfer right onto the narrow windows of the breezeway face, and climb these to roof. This is slippery and a bit delicate. Roof of breezeway may also be attained by rappelling from main wing.

South Wing (Extension) 1st asc.- 1965- A. Ellis, A. Purdey, G. Woodsworth, R. Culbert.
From roof of breezeway, use a shoulder-stand with two tall men to slip a claw hammer onto rim of roof. Ventilator screens assist on the final blockhouse.


Difficulty
 
Cam feeling the burn.

Chemistry Cracks

Start on the roof of a ground floor entryway. Head up the crack. Strenuous jamming with few rests. Climbing shoes help.

Lead climbing this route not recommended. Placing cams in these polished brick cracks is sketchy at best. I was easily able to rip out a cam with a jump test. However; if placed just right with the only points of contact on the grouted edges of the brick, the cam might hold a fall. Use long slings to prevent the cams from walking. Not recommended unless you are quite confident you won't be putting any pieces to the test.

Toping roping is the better option, albeit still problematic as the easiest route to access Chemistry roof is Chemistry Drainpipe.

The late great Guy Edwards claimed someone lead this route in the '60s, on the far more serious face around the corner to the right. Up until 2004 there was a large ball bearing jammed in the crack about 2/3rd's of the way up. Each edge of the bearing sat perfectly in the grout between the bricks. I can see no other explanation for the ball bearing, other than to be used for a single piece of protection for this climb.


Difficulty
 

Chemistry Drainpipe

The 1968 description of "fairly firm" still holds somewhat true. Just be gentle. You can slip a sling behind the pipe, a short bit of clothes hanger wire would aid in this. I wouldn't bother doing this in two pitches. Just sling the spout and go for it. The top move is tricky, be mindful of a few sharp metal edges.

Climb it while it's still there.

1968 Guide:
Chemistry Building, Main Section. (daylight - but challenged)

The direct west face of the main section was first climbed in 1962 by B. McKnight and G. Headley. This ascent caused some severe disturbance in a chemistry class, and both climbers had top-rope belay. It was first led in 1965 by T. Auger. [Update: top rope no longer possible. This route is the best line of weakness to gain the Chem roof.]

The drainpipe used is just north of the south entrance on west face. Climb this directly (fairly firm) to a micro-balcony above windows. This may be used for a belay position if two leads are to be employed. From this point continue to ornamental pseudo-spout and do chin-up there on to main roof. (Spout is firmer than it looks).


Difficulty
 

Chemistry Traverse

Two separate routes waiting to be linked up.

1. Start at the left edge of the building, on the corner nearest the tree. Lieback up the thin edge of the engraved cornerstone. Traverse right, using the slopey face for the feet. Match hands on the left edge of the first window to complete.

2. The better of the two routes. Start at the railing to the right, traversing left across the windows, across the bulges, all the way to the left edge of the curved window near the start of route 1. Starts easy, gets progressively harder. One very hard move prevents the linking of these two routes.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Chemistry Windows

1968 Guide:
South Wing. 1st asc.- Steve White (L), Neil Humphrey, Chris McNeill.

Up the coloured windows facing onto University Blvd. Starting from bivy ledge above entrance. This is an exposed & STRENUOUS route. MUST be done dry -- bricks are slippery. Rappel from ladder on top. This route requires good "psyche" and better arms.


Difficulty
 

CICSR Alley Crack

I wanted to call this route CICSR Crack Alley and tell tales of UBC's seedy, drug-addled underbelly. Unfortunately said underbelly does not exist.

Use the grate for feet, and the vertical crack for hands. Head up. A neat, balancey route that can be avoided entirely with a dyno.


Difficulty
 
See how much fun we are having?

CICSR Alley Square Hole

I'm at odds on how to rate the difficulty of this route. When we first found it, it was a tricky, fun route involving all sorts of contortions to get to the top. But when I recently went back to give it a burn I found it very easy, thinking "that's all?"

Pull on the square thing, pop to the edge, and to the top.

This may or may not be a great route. Climb and discuss.


Difficulty
 
Katy getting creative.

Clock Tower

Chimney up the sides of the entrance way. Use various undercling, crimping, sidepulling techniques to reach up to the ledge. Mantel up. The metal key box is OUT.

The full tower has yet to see an ascent.


Difficulty
 

CompSci Pit

Easy...or is it? Drop down into the pit and hope you can climb yourself out.


Difficulty
 

Dentistry Cracks

A good lead climb that takes cams. Scramble up onto the sub-roof. There's two choices of crack widths: finger sized on the western wall, and hand jams sized on the eastern wall. The western wall is quite a bit harder, with an extra storey of height to boot.

Rappel off. On the eastern wall, sling the huge air vent about 20 ft back. A hoodie or a piece of rug will save your rope from getting eaten by the sharp concrete edge.

1968 Guide:
Route 1st asc. March 1968 D. Culbert, T. Auger, E. Lance, B. Howard, D. Harris, F. Baumann, and R. Price

Using the second concrete pillar south of the north-east end of the building, layback up and do a free mantleshelf to reach the first set of windows on the second floor. The original ascent party placed a 1" angle piton here to protect the chimney and mantleshelf. Traverse left to the concrete corner, chimney up the final ledge and make a long reach to the top of the concrete wall on the left.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Dentistry Cracks II

The original guidebook author feels obliged to justify this "paltry" 15 ft route, a highball by any modern standard.

1968 Guide:
Route 1st. asc 1966 M. Ablitt, T. Auger
The south west corner provides the lowest wall height. Ascend the low wing by climbing onto the porch roof and up onto the low wing. The upper portion is ascended by 'jamming' up between the window panes - prominent features of the building's architecture. It's a slightly neat pitch. O.k?!! About 15 ft. high. (Also climb the little roof shack to summit of course).

Difficulty
 

Dentistry Traverse

Shimmy up the column. Pull up onto the ledge using jams and pinches. The texture of the ribs are disconcertingly sandy. Traverse left, and step across to the sub-roof.


Difficulty

Quality
 
Mike asking for direc​tions​.​

Education I-Beams

Climb any of the beams, although this one is the most secluded. A nice, straightforward lead-climb with good protection. Feed your slings through the incuts. Rap off of slings. Solo up the diagonals if you are feeling frisky.


Difficulty
 

Forestry Chimney Traverse

Start with hands on the lower window ledge to the left, traverse right across pillar to the higher ledge (large gap), and again across next pillar, shimmy up chimney and end with hands on highest ledge.


Difficulty
 

Forestry Crimp

See: Featured Route

Layback up the wall, trying not to barn door. Grab the crimper. From there it's a hard iron-cross to the balcony. Mantel up.

In the spirit of the 1960s climbers, climb up the successive chimneys to the roof proper.


Difficulty
 

Forestry Stairwell Chimney

No shortage of chimneys on campus. Methinks the author doth like chimneys too much.


Difficulty
 

Friedman

1968 Guide:
The smaller Bio-med buildings are of almost identical construction. The problem of a route up these disgustingly simple and slippery structures was first solved in 1965 by M. Wisnicki and T. Auger. Their ascent was of the western building, and the other was climbed shortly thereafter by T. Auger, M. Wisnicki and G. Headley.

Ascent is damn strenuous, exposed, and generally classic. On one end of either building there is a stairway encased in glass and aluminum. Grab aluminum frames on either side of an outer corner and layback up windows. This is for three stories, but partial rests on cross-frames are available. Running shoes or klettershue recommended. Beware sweaty hands or wet feet. A mantleshelf completes ascent.


Difficulty
 
Kenny Frazz. This photo appeared in an issue of Vancouver magazine.

Gage Arete

Climb the thin vertical in-cuts to brief respite on horizontal edge. Throw desperately to top, or stylishly static it if you've got energy to spare. Quality.

One night while working on this problem, D-Man noticed a bunch of mattresses in the nearby dumpster. He pulled them out, stacked them 3 deep at the base of the route, and then jumped off of the top. He promptly bounced back up nearly as high, and off of the mats directly onto his ass.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Gage Jumpy Thing

This route is downright silly, yet people seem compelled to climb it. So I should warn you: IT'S REALLY SHARP! Numerous people have cut their hands on the top of this cement drainage thing. There. You've been warned.

Run, jump, grab, mantel.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Gage Pipe

Jump up and grab the pipe. Pop to the thin horizontal ledge with one hand, pushing down on the pipe with the other. Pop to the ledge to the right.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Hebb Layback and Stem

A tree grows where the ladies once stood.

1968 Guide:
(daylight)... The two best known routes are around the east side. The first of these was first done by M. Wisnicki, and involves chimneying up one of the narrow encaves in which the small windows are set [2008: or layback]. This is somewhat tricky. (a)

The second route is also fairly difficult, and involves laybacking up an open corner on east face near main entrance to minor corner rooflet, then chimneying from here up (or stem?). (b)


Difficulty
 

Hebb Roof

A fun bouldery route. Climb up the vent near the finish of Hebb Stairwell Traverse to get on the roof. Work your way up the arete. Hang and drop for descent.


Difficulty
 
Kenny jamming. SteveZ, D-Man, and Vance Culbert looking on.

Hebb Stairwell Traverse

Stand on the door hinges, pull yourself up onto the ledge. Traverse leftward over the stairs, using the fist jam cracks. Grab the ledge, pulling to safety.


Difficulty
 

Hebb Windows

Solo up the horizontal edges on the glass tower. Bring a rope to rappel. Stories have been told of people using C-Clamps for protection. I'd hate to put one to the test. Last known ascent by the late great John Millar.

1968 Guide:
1st ASC - 1964 - G. Headley

Route The impressive sets of windows on north-east or south-east corners provide a straight-forward if daring route to the summit. This is simply a matter of finding how to get from one window sill to the next and repeating this for multi stories. The climbing is not technically difficult but the exposure makes itself felt. If party has only one rope of 120' or less, they will likely have to rappel first to the overpass connecting with Henning building if they wish double-rope.


Difficulty
 

Hennings Arete

See: Featured Route

A great rock route worthy of a rock climbing grade. Climbing shoes are expected.

The roof of Hennings can be gained by a large sturdy pipe on the south face of the building [see inset]. Drop a rope down the north west corner of the building and top-rope the arete [5.12] or just left of the arete, using sidepulls [5.11-].

In pre-pipe days, parties would throw a rope over a branch of the nearby tree. A set-back anchor plus a cruxy top section must've made for some exhilarating climbing.

This is a high traffic area for pedestrians. Best climbed on dark foggy nights. Throwing your rope bag over the nearby light helps. Otherwise, good social skills or a cell phone blocker is a plus.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Hennings Pillars

The late great Guy Edwards claimed someone fell off these pillars in the '80s, breaking his back on the stairs. This event apparently sent buildering into a dark age, as security cracked down on the activity. However, a search of the UBC archives for some mention of this event yielded no results. It could be that the student newspapers didn't report it, or perhaps the whole story is an embellishment of the following story:

1968 Guide:
The stone pillars on the north do not offer as easy route as they might appear to. R. Price and M. Warr are agreed on that - damaged ankles are not worth it.

In any case use the utmost caution if soloing this route.


Difficulty
 

Hennings-Hebb Breezeway

1968 Guide:

Route 1
1967 R. Price (Lead), A. Purdey, R. Culbert, R. Scott, H. Bruce

Climb up (using shoulderstand) to ledge on outside of Henning end of breezeway. Traverse south on breezeway ledge to south end (keeping rope clear of traffic on road below). At this point you clamp a set of vice-grip pliers to a metal window flange and, with a combination stem and mantel-shelf, proceed to top of breezeway. Walk to top of Henning from here.

Route 2

(penciled in) 1972. Chris McNeil (L), Neil Humphrey, Steve White.

Climb up the north facing windows on Hebb Towers until level with the top of the breezeway. Traverse right across windows, and across a brick (polished) chimney to the top of the breezeway. A belay point is anchored from under the ridges on the breezeway roof.

This is exposed and somewhat tricky (near the chimney), but is a fun climb.


Difficulty
 

IRC/Wood Alley Rib

Climb up the weirdo pocketed concrete. Almost feels like rock climbing doesn't it?


Difficulty
 

IRC/Wood Backside Corner

Use the features on both walls to pop, pop, and pop to the top. Descend through the unlocked door to the right.


Difficulty
 

IRC/Wood Backside Windows

Mantel onto the window ledge, using the undercling. Grab the horizontal edges and extend into greatness. The pipe is in.


Difficulty
 

IRC/Wood Front Windows

Swing up into the windows. Startle a studier. Traverse out right and grab the ledge. Mantel up.


Difficulty

Quality
 
Katy styling the route in cross​-trai​ners.​

IRC/Wood Library Corner

Use the door hinges, mono-holes, and the edge to pull to the top. Difficult. Sticky rubber and pointy shoes a big help.


Difficulty
 

IRC/Wood Stairwell

Chimney up, push your weight forward and reach around to the ledge. Swing around, and up. The handrail for the feet is out. Good times.


Difficulty

Quality
 

IRC/Wood Traverse

Test your Ape Index. Shuffle along a small edge for the feet, reeeeeaching between blank sections. For bonus points do it further to the right, where there's a healthy penalty for falling.

See http://www.buildering.net/node/135 for an interesting story regarding such a fall.


Difficulty
 
Ard leading the outside of the pipes.

Koerner Library

Choose from four almost identical routes. The north east corner seems to offer the best visibility vs. highball trade-off.

Technically, the hardest part is getting over the bulge at the bottom. Stand above the quarried rock band, and lean out using the undercling. Reach around the bulge, and grab the top edge. If your reach is too short, get someone to give you a boost. Pinch the vertical cement ribs with your feet for footholds. There's a better edge about a foot back from the first one, grab it and swing yourself up.

Climb the long vertical pipes to the top. You've got two options: 1. A nice lead climb up the outside of the pipes. Sling the cross beams. 2. Shimmy UNDER the pipes, and climb the inside. It's an easy solo.

Once at the top of the pipes, it's a spooky but straightforward move over the glass and onto the roof proper. Don't die. I prefer to use the metal support pieces as holds, as opposed to the glass. Whale humping over the top is A OK!

If you climbed up the north end, there's a ladder taking you to the curved glass roof of Koerner. From the south side you'll need to climb some pipes and pull on an eavesdrop. Traverse over to the other side of the roof, where an identical climb awaits you for the descent.

Great fun.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Koerner Library Edges

Don't even think about it. Ok fine. Starting in the courtyard at the bottom of the stairs, climb the horizontal cracks.


Difficulty
 
Unknown, fighting the top-out.

Law Laybacks

Now available in baby, momma, and papa sizes. Layback up the chimney. Save some for the top out, it's not as positive as you would hope.


Difficulty
 
Optional descent. Ard.

Life Sciences Chimneys

Lots to choose from, with varying widths and heights. Descend via one of the shorter ones 'round front.

Watch out for private security guards -- an anomaly on campus. Most buildings have no security whatsoever. Must be something worth protecting inside.


Difficulty
 

Life Sciences Crack

UBC's LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Gold Certified building has a nice gold certified climb 'round back.

Layback and jam up the finger crack. A nice alternate start is in the chimney to the left. Traverse right into the crack.

Watch out for overzealous private security hired for this building.


Difficulty

Quality
 

Lower Koerner Campus

Jump up to the 45 degree sloper. Don't get too excited and fall onto your back. It happens, I don't know why but it happens. Maybe because people jump forward as well as up, their legs swing underneath them and they can't hold on.

Jump straight up to the 45 degree sloper. Campus your way up, grabbing for the back edge when available. Rock over and rock on (dude).


Difficulty

Quality
 
Ard almost home free.

Lower Koerner Chimney

Stand on the door hinges. Work your way into a wide ass-to-toe chimney. Eek up to the ledge. Nice big ol' railing for a top jug. After office hours only.


Difficulty
 

MacLeod Corners

1968 Guide:
1st asc.- 1965- J. Whittaker, G. Headley

Route As with the Chemical Engineering building, ascent is made by successive ropings of the flying corners. Choosing the best set of corners will avoid the embarrassment of drawing a crowd of gawkers on an adjacent stairway. There is a mantle-shelf movement onto a penthouse roof, where first party swung a knee through a window -- smoother operation is recommended.


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Main Library Extension

Yup, it's been climbed -- on top-rope. I have no idea how to get on to the roof of the building now that all the construction is completed.


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Main Library Pillar

One of the newer climbs on campus, in fact Google maps has yet to show this new library extension.

Climb up the quarried stone pillar. A nice variation is to start on the horizontal crimps to the right of the pillar, and traverse left across the pillar to top out on the low wall.


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Unknown. (p) Oker.

MMat Mosaic

The most obvious buildering route on campus. Lots to choose from. Try traversing using just the circles (big and small).


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James having a smoke. (p) Oker.

MMAT Shuffle

Start to the left, grabbing the edge of the chimney, feet on the ledge. Traverse right, and around the corner. Route ends with right hand on corner, as in photo. The little plaque is out. Purists should try it with open palms, i.e. no crimping on the grout.


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Music

Route 1: The right chimney. Bring a rope. Solo up to where the white part of the building starts. Easy but spooky. There's a great piece of protection, a metal bar connecting the white part of the building with the concrete under it, about 12" to the right of the chimney.

Head up the now narrower chimney, with a nice crack in the back. Laybacking is trickier, but much easier on the knees. The crack takes #1 and #2 Camalots, but the real bomber pieces are hexes where the crack widens at the horizontal ribs.

There's a similar climb around the front of the building. It is one story lower, the crack in the back is thinner (#2 Metolius), and it has a much larger bust factor.

Route 2: See: Featured Route. The arete. A recent addition to the building, the large air ducting pipes, offer points of protection for this climb. Solo up to left chimney. Sling the first bracket, and move right to the right rib. Sling the brackets.

Descent Go through the unlocked door, through the maintenance room and out. Roof access doors are almost always unlocked out to in, and locked in to out. Therefore, it's best not let the door shut behind you before you know there's a way out of the building.


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Music Arete

Layback, and pinch the arete to work up and to the red I-beam on the left. A quality route.

Drop down. A crash pad or a spotter to take some weight off your fall is always nice.


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Mike H.

Music Chimneys

Lots of different sizes, fun for the whole family. Chimney techniques only, i.e. no pinching the ribs. Don't kick the windows...they break.

Hardman Mike Hengeveld used the Music Chimneys to practice his offwidth technique for the fearsome Squamish Pipeline (5.10c). He's also a humorous story teller. Read his account here.


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Not all our fictional images can be perfectly photo​shopp​ed.​

North Parkade Chimney

Directly to the left of North Parkade Dyno. Use your head on this climb. Literally! Weeeeeeee...

Getting into the chimney is the tricky part. Once in, shimmy up and out.


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The unsto​ppabl​e​ Kenny Frazz zeroes in.

North Parkade Dyno

Grab the corners of the block, throw for the ledge above. The ledge is good and positive, sloping back slightly. It may need some pre-cleaning from overgrown bushes.

Mantel up.


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Osborne Corner

This probably should be rated moderate, but since I've been unable to climb it on two separate occasions, while everyone else has, I'm giving it a black diamond. Climb up the corner. Email me to tell me how easy you thought it was.


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Ard conte​mplat​ing.​

Pool Corner

Step on the door hinges. Pull up into an undercling. Reeeeeach. Pinching the bottom part of the metal edge should give you just enough to pop to the top. The handrail is OUT.


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Pool Dyno

Stand on the electrical conduit, grab the horizontal edge, and spring like a bunny.


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Psychiatry Crack

Splendid fist jamming up the dihedral. A bit highball. Walk east and north to the front entrance of the building, descending onto the covered entrance way (a bit awkward).

Around the corner to the left of this route is a much longer and slightly wider crack that would make a fantastic top-rope, or possible lead? Very difficult starting move, but once your feet are in the crack I'd think things would get easier.


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Psychiatry Mantel

Stem up the vertical ribs, mantel up onto the slopey shelf. Now traverse back and forth along the shelf, using the pinches above your head for grips. See how fast you can go. Have races. Organize outings. Corporate picnics.


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Psychology Vent

Somewhere between easy and moderate, a fun route for its grade. Drop down into the pit, and climb your way out using the vent and features on the north wall.


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The bushes have gotten signi​fican​tly​ more out of control since this photo was taken.

SRC Cubbyhole

Start in the corner under the overhang. Hand traverse out to the end of the block. Swing up on top of the block. Now the fun part. Turn around so you are facing the wall, and use various toe hooks and knee bars to reach up to the top.

Could use some pruning.


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Ard, wishing the treadmill girls could see his sweet moves.

SRC Edges

Campus up the horizontal edges until you can get your right foot on the lowest edge. Move right to the super jug railing. Watch all the beautiful people workout, totally oblivious to your misdeeds (bright inside + dark outside = window is one way mirror).


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SRC Pillar

One of the best landings on campus will console you as you eek out the cruxy top move.

Shimmy up the pillar (there's a crack in the back). Grab the ledge to the left, and mantel up to the top. There's a lower, easier pillar to the right with no mantel move to deal with.


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SRC Pipes

Swing up onto the platform above the door. Traverse right, stepping on the light, to the beams. Up, up, and away.

Descend by dropping off the opposite side of the roof, down the metal sloped roof to a ladder.


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SRC Wall

Top rope. Choose this wall, or the one to the left of the SRC Pipes route. The other wall is a bit longer, but has a rest at the circular grate 2/3 rds up. It also faces the bus loop, and therefore not recommended unless doing in the wee hours of the morning.

Climb the SRC Pipes route to set up your top rope. Use the holes and the side-pull edges to work your way up. Strenuous but quality.


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Steam Plant Chimney

See: Featured Route

Chimney up the chimney, then head up the...ahem...chimney.


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SUB Cracks

The wider the shoes the better on this one. Head up the corner. Jam your feet, and sidepull or jam your hands. Tricky top move.

A harder variation starts at the middle of the doors to the left. Use the hinges and pull up into the cracks.

Walk around to the south side of the building for an easy descent down a metal ledge.


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Thunderbird Residence

One of those 3'-off-the-ground routes that all the YouTube kiddies love to film each other on. But hey...this one is really fun. Head up the pillar, exit left to the ledge. You could always continue to the top for gnar gnar points.


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Thunderbird Stadium

After hours climbing only.

A barbed wire fence has been added since 1968, likely to keep out folks wanting to see Radiohead for free. Climb over the main entrance gate on the east side of the building, and head through the building to the south. Climb the rock wall on the south end of the building, and up on to the roof.

The rest of the 1968 description is applicable, although I'd recommend Method 1. It's more fun and quicker, especially since it's a royal pain getting your prusiks around the cables should you start from the bottom.

Grant and I used 8mm static cord, which was shredded after a couple ascents. Webbing may hold up a bit better. Kenny Frazz is convinced leather straps are the ticket.

Safety Bears may want to be on belay, which is possible. Use the point where the cables meet the pillar as a single point of protection. Should the leader fall, the belayer should quickly and decisively jump off the high edge of the roof. Theoretically neither will hit the ground.

1968 Guide:

Route 1st. asc. Oct. 1967 L. Watson (assisted by F. Bauman, R. Price, and M. Warr)
Two easy moves get you on the main roof. From the entrance gate at the north side, climb the gate to top of stone wall and mantel shelf to the roof. The roof is supported by cables from twelve 70 ft. concrete pillars. The width of the pillars precluded any method of climbing but by prussicing. Two alternatives present themselves:

1. Climb up a cable (we climbed the 4th one from the north end) and then using prussic slings of at least 12 ft. in length, gain the thunderbird top.
2. Prussic directly from bottom to top. Cable can be used for running belay. (The successful team used method 2).

The birds on top appear to be fairly solid and the hole in the beak can be used as a rappel point.


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Note the handy staircase to exit from window onto roof.

War Memorial

1968 Guide:
Route This is one of the more classical artificial routes on campus, and its solution demonstrates how even the most unlikely looking buildings may sometimes be climbed with a little ingenuity.

Lower Section 1st asc. 1965 A. Purdey, R. Culbert
Begin from western end of porch on north-west corner. Just beyond the railing here a conduit pipe runs up wall to sub-roof overlooking pool. There are cross-grooves every so often in the cement, and pitons may be jammed in grooves behind pipe. Now as a rule, when weight is put on these pitons, the pipe warps and the pins rotate -- flipping out. Hence it is best to put on only partial weight and then then slip a prussic knot on conduit as it pulls away from wall. In this fashion proceed to roof.

Upper section 1st asc. 1963 - G. Headley, B. McKnight.
The party recorded above originally solved the problem of the summit overhang, reaching the forementioned sub-roof by coming out windows from inside the building. From subroof ascend these windows to ventilators under final overhang. Using sling tied on the ventilator struts go straight out, hanging free in etrier. From outer edge of ventilators reach up and hook claw-hammer of fifi-hook on edge of roof. This last movement is somewhat tricky.


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War Memorial Pillar

1968 Guide:


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Wesbrook

Pinch the pillar and then dyno out to the lip of the overhang. Yeah right! A spooky landing has deterred any serious effort of climbing this route. Best bring a huge crash pad, or do it the old school way...

1968 Guide
WESTBROOK HOSPITAL [2008: now Wesbrook, a lecture hall] (daylight)
1st. asc. 1967 (Open House) M. Warr, R. Culbert, H. Bruce, A. Purdey, R. Scott, M. Ablitt

Using left or right front entrance pillar (we used the left one) for the route, do a shoulder stand. Using one grappling hook on ledge above stand in etriers in order to attain this ledge. (From a shoulder stand a mantel-shelf could be done, but how do you then get your second up?). Repeat this maneuver until the top is reached. One should use the excuse of OPEN HOUSE in climbing the hospital, as it is closely watched generally to prevent the smuggling of drugs.


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West Parkade Crack

Head up the crack between the two buildings using an assortment of layback, mantel, and fist-jam techniques. Go as high as you'd like, although most exit at the second railing.


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Grant with a heel grab.

West Parkade Mantel

On floor 6 or the second level if you enter the parkade from the south east corner. Jump and grab the cement protrusion. Mantel up using brute force, toe hooks, and what-have-you.


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West Parkade Windows

Test your propensity for exposure. Climb the windows as high as you dare. Plenty of exits off to the right.


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Wood Science Beams

Get on the roof via the big gate on the east side of the building. Climb the 45 Deg overhanging wood beams. Top out and play slip n' slide on the metal roof.

Reverse route for descent.


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Ard humping concrete.

Wood Science Pillar

Not very noteworthy, albeit straightforward climbing. Note the flimsy nature of the tin edge, and the enema potential of the landing (see photo). A smarter climber would've climbed the north aspect face.

This area is often gated and locked to prevent theft of building supplies. You may have a hard time explaining what you are doing should you be caught.


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