The Dean Potter Interview
Dean Potter's record breaking speed climbs on the walls of Yosemite [The Nose, 3:24], his hard free solos [The Crippler, on-sight free solo, 5.13+] [Astroman, free solo, V 5.11], and his alpine skills [California Roulette - Fitz Roy, FA, free solo, VI 5.10+ WI5] garner him worldwide recognition in the rock-climbing community.
Just as impressive are his non-climbing exploits, having pioneered the world of high slack-lining (aka high-lining), and performed many new and daring BASE jumps.
Combinations of these three disciplines, such as his BASE jump from slack-line at the Cave of Swallows, or his climb of El Mocho’s East Pillar in Patagonia with a BASE jump descent, defy categorization.
Do you have a skydiving background for your BASE jumping?
Yeah I jumped out of planes hundreds of times before I did my first BASE. I still skydive a lot in order to keep my skills up, and to keep the BASE jumping safe.
Did you skydive as a means to get to BASE jumping, or did you do it in and of itself?
I got into skydiving with the intention of BASE jumping. I never thought I'd enjoy skydiving that much, but I found that I quite enjoy hanging out in a plane with a bunch of weirdos. Now Steph and I schedule little vacations just to go skydiving. It's way social, way fun, and they accept everybody no matter how weird you are.
Where's your home drop zone?
Lodi California, it's the cheapest drop zone in the country.
Any close calls?
Yeah, I had a chute malfunction while BASE jumping in the Cave of Swallows, but was able to grab onto a rope to prevent hitting the ground.
[From Dean's article in Alpinist 9: "As I suit up I notice my BASE rig is slightly damp. A wet parachute is okay because it is symmetrical. Mine is half wet, asymmetrical...Ignoring it, I rush...three, two, one...in a split second things are bad...I look up and see a serious line-twist malfunction. Spinning...my canopy runs directly into the 1,200 foot static line rigged from the top of the cave to the bottom. I grab the 10 mm cord with my bare hands. I'm 300 ft off the deck, ... I hear the zipping noise of rapid rope through soft skin. I fight the immense pain...ripping my hands to the muscle...stopping myself."]
Dean BASE jumping in a wingsuit. Monte Brento, Italy
Regarding your tetherless high-lining, Chongo once said, "Dean's a big strong guy. If he falls he's going to grab onto that line, and there's no way he's letting go."
That's pretty much the truth of it. The slack-line is the biggest jug ever for a climber. It's quite scary being out there unattached, but I feel quite confident that I can grab the line if I fall. I don't grab it with my hands though, I grab it first with the back of my leg and then my hands. So it's a whole body catch.
I practice it a ton, and that's the only reason why I can go out there leashless.
In your Aerialist movie there's a scene where you fall, spin around, and end up sitting back on top of the line.
Yeah I don't know how it happens, but it's like a special move I have. People often think it's a trick. I'll fall and people will say, "cool trick dude" but little do they know.
For your high-lines, are you using regular 1" nylon tubular webbing?
I used to use webbing. I'd use three pieces taped together, with each piece on a separate anchor. It's also not a bad idea to tape a climbing rope to the underside, which isn't under tension.
These days I use a single piece of 3/4" Amsteel Blue, which is used for sailing. It's made out of Spectra, has a breaking strength of 20 000 lbs [compared to 4000 lbs for 1" nylon webbing], and doesn't stretch at all. It's quite expensive though [$7 / ft].
Dean on a tetherless high-line. 3 Gossips, Utah
What's the history behind slack-lining?
Slack-lining started in the late 70s / early 80s where climbers started walking on webbing -- which is the main distinction between slack-lining and tight-rope walking. Slack-liners walk on webbing or spectra, and tight-rope walkers walk on high tension cable.
Part of the reason slack-lining took off was because of Chongo. Chongo was the first person I know who wanted to give away the slack-line. He didn't want to be the only one standing on it getting all the attention. He would say, "anyone can do it, let's party"!
Have you kept in touch with Chongo since he was kicked out of Yosemite Valley?
Yup, he has a cell phone -- pretty posh for a homeless guy. He lives under a bridge in Sacramento with a bunch of other homeless people, and hangs out at a climbing gym. He's a lot skinnier now that he doesn't get handouts from the Yosemite Concession Service, but he's healthier than ever.
We tried to hook him up with a job, but Chongo doesn't want to work. He seems to like the homeless man lifestyle. He's in his mid 50s, likes what he's doing, and just keeps studying and writing about physics.
You generated quite a bit of controversy with your climb of the Delicate Arch in Utah.
A lot of people took notice of my climb because it's the arch on the Utah license plate. At the time that I climbed it, the law was that you weren't allowed to put any bolts on any arch. So I didn't [Dean free-soloed the route]. After I climbed the arch they changed the law so that you weren't allowed to climb any named arch. So we followed the rules at the time.
Free solo. Dog Roof - 5.12b, Yosemite
What are you thinking about when you are soloing?
Learning from yoga, meditation, and the martial arts I just focus on my outward breath. I read in a Kung Fu book that your opponent can only deliver you a fatal blow on your inward breath, so when I'm soloing I focus on my outward breath and I pretend that I can't be delivered a fatal blow then.
Did you take part in any of Dan Osman's rope swings?
I did do one jump with Dano and that was enough. Something just didn't feel safe to me, it didn't seem redundant enough. I don't know why, I mean I jump with a single canopy when I BASE jump. It just seemed like he was using the gear in a way it wasn't intended.
I was part of the rescue party the day he died. [Dano's rope system failed on a 1000ft jump off of Leaning Tower, Yosemite].
Have you done any buildering?
Usually if I'm climbing buildings it means I've had too much to drink and I'm just hell raising. I'd think I'd be more into Parkour -- there's a bunch of moves that I'd like to learn, but I'm a little too lanky for some of the flips.
Dean high-lining to Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite
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